
SHSSSSBEaESSSSHSSS 















A UNIFORM SYSTEM FOR 

Ladies^ and Geni^u^ 
Garments 

BY 

F, fiPIKMAN 



THE 

U. S. A. 
SYSTEM 

OF 



LADIES & GENTLEMEN'S GARMENTS CUTTING. 

BY 

fFspikman. 



The main feature helping towards perfection 
in garment-cutting is a perfectly made system. 



PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR. BUFFALO N. Y. U.S.A. 



I 






m 24 1918 
©CI.A497448 l<^.^ j 




h 



copyright, may 1918, 

By 

FRINS SPIKMAN. 

BUFFALO, N. Y. 
U. S. A. 



PREFACE. 



"|"he herein compounded cutting system will give a better, clearer, a more complete 
explanation of the numerous problems which the art of cutting embraces, then my 
brief vocabulary would be capable of desribing. When we will consider the fact how 
comprehensive and of which a contradictory nature those problems are; (which we 
may call "the gaps or unanswerd problems of authors and system-makers.") then, the 
value of the system appears clearly upon the fore-ground. The desire to produce 
something far in advance of even the most pretentious cutting systems now before 
the trade, is realized in the compounding of a uniform cutting system for both sexes, 
which is a feature to be appreciated, especially in this days of competition. The con- 
tents of this book will give proof that it represents the kind of system which give ful- 
lest satisfaction, and most adequately fill the requirement of even the very exacting 
cutter of to day. The system is perfectly balanced as may be judged from the accom- 
panying geometrical plane, whose lines and figures correspond with the construction- 
lines of the system— resulting in a equally correctness even for the most puzzling fig- 
ures—thus adding considerable to the value and render the system practical faultless. 
The aim of this book has been to make every point in it— safe to rely upon — and to 
act upon — to furnish a more reliable tool to the profession. The unlimited usefulness 
makes it indispensable to the progressive tailor who desires to secure the patronage of 
that class of customers whose aim it is to posses the ACME in ARTISTIC garments. 

Buffalo, N. Y. U. S. A. F. Spikman. 



THEOREM. 




Balance the secret of cutting. Above is the theorem of the system which in connec- 
tion with the contents of this book desolves every question regarding cutting. The 
lines and marks used in this are corresponding with the pattern-drawings. Problems 
as— neck-point, balance, disproportion etc. which have vexed the brightest minds, are 
desolved by the compounding of this geometrical plane. Balance is a equal weight 
on both sides of the centre of gravity round which it moves. The so called neck-point 
cannot move without moving of the joining back-part in opposite direction. Any at- 
titude or form as head for or backward, stooping or erect etc. in any case equilibrium 
will be preserved. Circumference of breast or bust has nothing to do with balance 
that falls beyound the boundary lines of the theorem. Balance correctly follows any 
growth of waist as can be noticed by the different pattern drawings throughout the 
book. The waistline— represented by line 4— B— is the second bending in the body, 
and forms the platform of the bascule for the uppersection. It will be noticed that 
this system deals only with one section or solid for the upper-structure. 



HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURES 




Fig 



To get the very best results, measure all short measurements for MEN over vest, 

for LADIES over tight fitting waist or blouse. 

Depth of scye as shown in Fig. 1 is measured from nape of neck at C to D. 

Natural waist length is measured from nape of neck at C to B. 

(Fig. 2.) Over-shoulder is measured from A or forearm-pitch over centre of shoulder 

to centre of back at D. 
Blade measure is measured from D at centre of back, close up under the arm to A. 
Strap measure is measured from A up to nape of neck at C. 

Bust or breast measure is taken all around the body, close up under the arms, and 
well up the shoulder blades. Tape must meet in front directly across fullest part of 
bust or chest. (The line E in Fig. 3 shows where this measurement is to be taken). 
Waist measurement. Measure around the smallest part of the waist. 
Hip measure is taken around fullest part of seat as shown bv line H. 



SCALE OF PROPORTIONAL WAIST MEASURES, 

DEDUCED FROM 

THE OVER-SHOULDER MEASURE. 

The proportion 1/2 waist measure is one inch less than the over-shoulder measure. 



/er-shoulder 




taken 


Txr.2 


over vest. 


Wais 


12 ; 


22 


12V^ 


23 


13 i 


24 


13V^ 


25 


14 i 


26 


141/2 


27 


15 \ 


28 


m2 


29 


16 


30 


im 


31 


17 


32 


171/2 


33 


18 


34 


im 


35 


19 


36 


im 


37 


20 


38 


20^ 


39 


21 


40 


21% 


41 


22 


42 


22V4 


43 


23 


44 



D.B. FROCK-COAT. 

MEASUREMENTS. 



Scye depth 

Natural waist length 
Fashion waist length 

Full length 

Over-shoulder 



91/2 in. 


Blade measure 


113/4 in 


17 ,, 


Strap measure 


121/2,, 


183/4 „ 


Breast measure 


38 ,, 


41 ,, 


Waist measure 


341/2,, 


175/8,. 


Seat measure 


40 ,, 



Rule line A B. Make C one-sixth over- 
shoulder from A. C to D, back-depth. C 
B, natural waist-length. C BB full length. 

B to F is one inch. Place E one-third over- 
shoulder above D. Rule from E through 
F to G. Mark G, 1/2 over-shoulder below 
F. C to FF, is fashion waist-length. 
Square out from E, H,F,FF and G. G to 
W is IV^ inches. 

Place J from E, 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2inch. 

Square up and down from J to M and L. 

L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. 
N is midway between J and M. 
Connect A N. Place P from E, V2 over- 
shoulder less 3/j inch. 

Q from D, V2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. 

Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the 
back part is squared by this line. 

Mark R Vi over-shoulder above Q. R to S is 
i/g over-shoulder. Rule from A through S. 
On this line from A, measure back-depth 
plus 1 inch or to desired shoulder width. 

is back -depth above L. Measure from the 
centre of M-0 down to V, 1/2 over-shoulder 
less 1/2 inch; locating V in te centre of the 
lines M-L and P-0. 

B to 21 is Vs over-shoulder; X from W a tri- 
fle more. Rule from 21 through X to 22. 

Make 20 midway between Q and H. 
Curve from R through 20 and 21. 
Mark 7, 14 over-shoulder below 20. 

Take out 1 inch between back part and side- 
body at 7, and IVi inches from 21 to 23. 
Curve the side body from 1/2 inch above R, 
through 20, 7 and 23 to 24; Placing 24, 1/4 
inch below the fashion waist-line. Make U 
from 23, Vi over-shoulder less 1/2 inch. 

Raise 25, V2 inch above the fashion waist-line 
Chalk from 24 to 25. Shape the side seam 
from V through U to 25. 

Cut out the back; the top part through the 
lines C-A, A-N and N-L. The width of the 
back neck is regulated later on in harmony 
with the forepart. The placing of the 
shoulder seam also may be done afterward. 

Lay the back part on the paper and continue 



the lines H,F, FF and G. 

From W to Y is over-shoulder 

Place the number of 1/2 over-shoulder on Y 
and mark at Z, 1/4 waist measure. 
Measure fro-n W to X; place that quan- 
tity on Z, and make 19, half seat measure 
and 1/2 inch. Raise 27 the difference be- 
tween Vi waist and Vi seat above 24. 

Drop 26 IV2 inch below the fashion waist line. 

Chalk the pleat edge from 27 through 19 to 
13, and the waist seam from 27 through 25 
to 26. 

Place 1, 3 inches from Z. Square up and- 
down to 2 and 3 Make star, 1/2 over-shoul- 
der from 2. 10, always 2 inches from star. 

From star to 15 is 14 waist measure plus 1 in. 

B to T is 14 waist measure. F to 4 is over- 
shoulder plus 1 inch (4 seams.) 

From D to 18 is V2 breast measure plus 2 in. 

Add. from 18 to I 1 inch. 

Place the corner of the square on J with the 
long arm resting on T, and square out to 5. 

J to J J is 1 inch (4 seams.) 

JJ to 5 is 1/2 over-shoulder. 

Rule a line from 4 through 5 to 6 placing 6,1/3 
over-shoulder above 5. Square across at 6. 

8 is V^ inch (2 seams) above J J. 

Place the back part with point N resting on 8 
and A resting on the cross line squared out 
at 6. With the back part in this position, 
rule lines from A to S and from the waist 
line at 10 up to C. 

9 is the crossing point of this two lines. 
Curve the centre front line from A through I, 

and 15. Mark 11 the same amount above 

5 as N is above J. Curve the neck circle 

from C through 9 and 11. 
Mark 12 as much from 8 as the back on the 

line J-E is made from J. 
Measure the over-shoulder measure from D 

over the centre of the shoulder down to 17; 

locating 17 on the 10-C line. 
Curve the armhole through the guiding points 

as shown. Mark 3 from 2, one inch more 

than 13 is from 27. Chalk the bottom from 

13 to 14. 



D.B. FROCK-COAT. 




8 



CORPULENT MAN'S CUTAWAY. 

MEASUREMENTS. 



Scye depth 

Natural waist length 
Fashion waist length 

Full length 

Over-shoulder 



10 in. 


Blade measure 


133^in 


171/2- 


Strap measure 


13%,, 


191/4 „ 


Breast measure 


42 ,. 


39 ,, 


Waist measure 


44 „ 


20 „ 


Seat measure 


44 ,, 



Rule line A B. Mark C one-sixth over-shoul- 
der from A. C to D, scye depth. C B nat- 
uralwaist-length. C to full length. B to F 
is one inch. Place E one-third over-shoul- 
der above D. Rule from E through F to G. 

Mark G, V2 over-shoulder below F. C to FF, 
is fashion waist-length. Square out from E, 

H,F,FF and G. G to W is II/4 inches. Place 
J from E, 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. 

Square up and down from J to M and L. 

L to M is V^ over-shoulder plus V^ inch. 

N is midway between J and M. Connect A N. 

Place P from E, V2 over-shoulder less % inch. 

Q from D, V2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule 
from Q through P. The bottom of the back 
part is squared by this line. 

Mark R Vi over-shoulder above Q. R to S is 
V^ over-shoulder. Rule from A through S. 

On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 
inch or to desired shoulder width. O is scye 
depth above L. Measure from the centre of 
M-0 down to V, V2 over-shoulder less V^ in; 
locating V in the centre of the lines M-L and 
P-Q. B to 21 is 14 over-shoulder; form pleat 
edge from 21 to the bottom. Make 20 mid- 
way Q and H. Curve from R through 20 and 
21. Mark 7, Vi over-shoulder below 20. 

Take out 1 inch between back part and side- 
body at 7, and IVi inches from 21 to 23. 
Curve the side body from y^ inch above R, 
through 20, 7 and 23 to 24; Placing 24, 1/4 
inch below the fashion waist-line. Make U 
from 23, Vi over-shoulder less 1/2 inch. 

Raise 25, 1/2 inch above the fashion waist-line 
Chalk from 24 to 25. Shape the side seam 
from V through U to 25. 

Cut out the back; the top part through the 
lines C-A, A-N and N-L. The width of the 
back neck is regulated later on in harmony 
with the forepart. The placing of the 
shoulder seam also may be done afterward. 

Lay the back part on the paper and continue 

the lines F, FF and G. From W to Y is over- 
shoulder. Place the number of V2 over-shoul- 
der on Y and mark at Z, Vi waist measure. 

Place the amount of the back skirt on Z, and 
make 19, half seat and V2 inch. Raise 27 the 
difference between y^ waist and Vi seat plus 
half the distance Y-Z above 24. Drop 26 IV2 
inches below the fashion waist line. 
Chalk the pleat edge from 27 through 19 to 13 
and the waist seam from 27 through 25 to 26. 
1 is 3 inches from Z. Square up and down to 2 
and 3; Star is V2 over-shoulder from 2. 



10 is always 2 inches from star. From star to 
15 is V4 waist plus 1 in. B to T is Vi waist. 
F to 4 is overshoulder plus 1 inch (4 seams.) 
Place the corner of the square on J with the 
long arm resting on T, and square out to 5. 
J to JJ is 1 inch (4 seams.) J J to 5 is y^ over- 
shoulder. Rule a line from 4 through 5 to 6 
placing 6, V3 over-shoulder and 2 .seams above 
5. Square across at 6. 8 is V2 inch (2 seams) 
above JJ. BP is 1/3 half breast below 5. 
Rule from L through BP to I; From D to I is 
1/2 breast plus 3 inches. Place the back part 
with point N resting on 8, and A resting on 
the cross line squared out at 6. 
With the back part in this position, rule lines 
from A to S and from the waist line at 10, 
up to C. Apply the over-shoulder measure 
from D over the centre of the shoulder down 
to 17; locating 17 on the 10-C line. Apply the 
strap measure from 17 to C; without addi- 
tion. Raise or lower 6 and 8 as much as the 
direct strap measure may determine; the dif- 
ference between direct and divisional strap 
measure, will increase or decrease the round- 
ness for shoulders and blades; if the direct 
measure is less, one half of the difference is 
added to the round curve of the side body as 
shown in diagram; the other is added to the 
roundness of the shoulder seam; which pro- 
vides for a more fitting neck part; neces- 
sary for this sort of figures. 
In cases where the strap measure reaches be- 
yond C, the process must be worked out in 
the opposite way. BC is obtained squaring 
out from T by J and T; lay the one arm of 
the square on T, the other touching Z, and 
square down; BC will be found at the corner 
of the square. Square also down by the nat- 
ural waist line; having corner touching B-C, 
and Zline; this will determine the actual v 
to be taken out in the fore part. Closing the 
broken lines in the skirt, it will open fore- 
part and skirt the necessary amount. 
9 is the crossing point of lines A-S and C-10. 
Curve the centre front line from A through I. 
and 15. Mark 11 the same amount above 
5 as N is above J. Curve the neck circle 
from C through 9 and 11. 
MarJc at 12 as much from 8 as the back on J- 

E line is made from J. 
Curve the armhole through the guiding points 
as shown. Add. 3^ inch for overlap at I, 
and V2 inch at 15. 
Shape front and bottom to style. 



CORPULENT MAN'S CUTAWAY. 




10 



S.B. SACK-COAT. 

MEASUREMENTS. 



Scye depth 

Natural waist length 

Full length 

Over-shoulder 
Blade measure 



9 in. 
163/4,, 
291/2,, 
17 ,, 
11% „ 



Strap measure 
Breast measure 
Waist measure 
Seat measure 



121/4 In. 

36 ,, 
32 ,, 

37 ,, 



Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul- 
der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- 
ural waist length. C to full length. 

B to F is one inch. Place E Vs over-shoulder 
above D. Rule from E through F to G. 

Mark G V2 over-shoulder below F. 

Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line. 

G to W is 114 inches. 

Place J from E, V2 over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch. 

Square up and down from J to M and L. 

L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. 

N is midway between M and J. 

Connect A and N. 

P from E is V2 over-shoulder less % inch. 

Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. 

Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the 
back part is squared by this line. 

R is 14 over-shoulder above Q; S is Vs over- 
shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. 

On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 
inch or desired shoulder width. O is scye 
depth above L. (0 falls in this case on M.) 

If there is difference between M and O, than 
measure from the centre of M O down to V 
1/2 over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, in 
the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. 

F to U is made V2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. 

X from G is made 1/2 over-shoulder less y^ in. 

Curve side seam from V through U and X. 

Hollow back seam % of a inch. 
Cut out the back. In cutting out the back 
pattern, the piece C-A, A-N and N-L, must 
be left on as it is required in making gorge 
and shoulder of the fore part. It will be 
seen that a better shaping of the gorge can 
be made corresponding with the back. 

Place the back pattern on the paper and con- 
tinue the lines F and G. 

Make Y over-shoulder from W. 

Place the number of V2 over-shoulder on Y 
and mark Z at Vi waist measure. Measure 
from W to X; place that quantity on Z, and 
measure back to 19 - V2 seat measure plus 
1/2 inch; (2 seams,) 

1 is placed 3 inches from Z. Sqaure up and 
down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star V2 



over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from 
STAR. Mark 15 from star Vi waist mea- 
sure plus 1 inch. 4 fi-om F is over-shoulder 
plus 1 inch. (4 seams.) 

T from B is Vi waist measure. 

Place the corner of the square on J with the 
long arm resting on T; and square out from 
J to 5. Place JJ 1 inch (4 seams) from J. 

5 is 1/^ over-shoulder from J J. Rule up from 
4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, Vs over-shoulder 
plus 1/2 inch (2 seams) above 5. 8 is 1/2 inch 
(2 seams) above J J. BP is Va breast mea- 
below 5. Rule from L over BP to I. 

Measure from D at the back seam over L and 
BP to 18, the 1/2 breast measure plus 2 in. 

I is 1 inch from 18. 

Mark 7, V^ over-shoulder below Q; take out 1 
inch at 7 and % from U to K ; between back 
and fore part side seams. Curve the side 
seam from V through 7, K and 19. 

Make 13 from K to correspond with U 22. 

Swing the back with point N on 8, and A res- 
ting on the cross line squared out from 6. 

With the back pattern in this position, rule 
lines from A to S, and from the waist line 
at 10, up to C. 

9 is the crossing point of these two lines. 

Rule the centre front line from A, through I 
locating a. What [a] falls beyond 15 is the 
surplus in the front waist. 

Mark 11 the same quantity above 5, as N is a- 
bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from 
C, through 9 and 11. 

Mark 12 as much from 8, as the back on the line 
J E, is made from J. 

Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over 
the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- 
ting 17, on the line C-10. 

Curve the arm hole through the guiding points 
as shown. 

Half of the surplus between 15 and a is token 
away by a dart from under the most promi- 
nent part of the chest the other half out on 
top of the lapel. 

Mark 3 from 2, 1 inch more than 22 is from 
U. Complete front and bottom to style. 



S.B. SACK-COAT. 




12 



CORPULENT MAN'S S.B. SACK-COAT. 

MEASUREMENTS. 



Scye depth 


11 in. 


Strap measure 


Natural waist length .. 


19 ,, 


Breast measure 


Full length 


321/2 „ 


Waist measure 


Over-shoulder 


21 ,, 


Seat measure 


Blade measure 


15 ., 





151/2 in. 
47 „ 
5U ,, 
50 .. 



Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul- 
der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- 
ural waist length. C to BB full length. 

B to F is one inch. Place E V3 over-shoulder 
above D. Rule from E through F to G. 

Mark G 1/2 over-shoulder below F. 

Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line. 

G to W is ll^ inches. 

Place J from E, V^ over-shoulder plus V^ inch. 

Square up and down from J to M and L. 

L to M is V^ over-shoulder plus V2 inch. 

N is midway between M and J. 

Connect A and N. 

P from E is V^ over-shoulder less y^ inch. 

Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. 

Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the 
back part is squared by this line. 

R is 14 over-shoulder above Q; S is 14 over- 
shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. 

On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 
inch or desired shoulder width. O is scye 
depth above L. (O falls in this case on M.) 

If there is difference between M and O, than 
measure from the centre of M O down to V 
V2 over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, in 
the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. 

F to U is made V2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. 

X from G is made 1/2 over-shoulder less % in. 

Curve side seam from V through U and X. 

Hollow back seam % of a inch. 

Cut out the back. In cutting out back pattern 
the piece C-A, A-N N-L must be left on as 
it is required, in making neck and shoulder 
part and front shoulder. 

Place the back pattern on the paper and con- 
tinue the lines F and G. 

Make Y over-shoulder from W. 

Place the number of V2 over-shoulder on Y 
and mark Z at Vi waist measure. Measure 
from W to X; place that quantity on Z, and 
measure back to 19 - 14 seat measure plus 
1/2 inch; (2 seams,) 

1 is placed 3 inches from Z. Sqaure up and 
down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star V^ 
over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from 
STAR. Mark 15 from star Vi waist mea- 



sure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shoulder 
plus 1 inch. (4 seams. ) 

T from B is Vi waist measure. 

Place the corner of the square on J with the 
long arm resting on T; and square out from 
J to 5. Place JJ 1 inch (4 seams) from J. 

5 is V2 over-shoulder from J J. Rule up from 
4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, 1/3 over-shoulder 
plus V2 inch (2 seams) above 5. 8 is V^ inch 
(2 seams) above J J. BP is V3 breast mea- 
below 5. Rule from L over BP to I. 

Measure from D at the back seam over L and 
BP to 18, the i/j breast measure plus 2 in. 

I is 1 inch from 18. 

Mark 7, V4 over-shoulder below Q; take out 1 
inch at 7 and % from U to K ; between back 
and fore part side seams. Curve the side 
seam from V through 7, K and 19. 

Make 13 from K to correspond with U 22. 

Swing the back with point N on 8, and A res- 
ting on the cross line squared out from 6. 

With the back pattern in this position, rule 
lines from A to S, and from the waist line 
at 10, up to C. 

9 is the crossing point of these two lines. 

Mark 11 the same quantity above 5, as N is a- 
bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from 
C, through 9 and 11. 

Mark 12 as much from 8, as the back on the line 
J E, is made from J. 

Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over 
the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- 
ting 17, on the line C-10. 

Curve the arm hole through the guiding points 
as shown. 

Mark 3 from 2, 1 inch more than 22 is from 
U. Complete front and bottom to style. 

To take away the surplus of material below 
the waist line square a line down to EE by 

the waist line over the front edge of pocket 
lay the square with the short arm on JJ-5- 
the other touching the point where EE line 
crosses the waist line and rule down. 

Cut the hip cut from OZ and pocket mouth. 

Pleat AA over to EE line to obtain the cut 
out of pocket mouth. 



CORPULENT MAN'S S. B. SACK-COAT. 



13 




14 



STOUT FIGURE 



MEASUREMENTS. 



Scye depth 

Natural waist length 

Full length 

Over-shoulder 
Blade measure 



THE BACK-PART. 

Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul- 
der belowf A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- 
ural waist length. C to BB full length. 
B to F is one inch. Place E 1/3 over-shoulder 

above D. Rule from E through F to G. 
Mark G V2 over-shoulder below F. 

Square out from E, H,F and G by E-G line. 
G to W is l'/4 inches. 

Place J from E, 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. 
Square up and down from J to M and L. 
L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch. 
N is midway between M and J. 
Connect A and N. 

P from E is 1/2 over-shoulder less 3^ inch. 
Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. 
Rule from Q through P. R is Vi over-shoul- 
der above Q; S is Vfe over-shoulder above 
R. Rule from A through S. On this line 
from A, apply scye depth and 1 in. or desi- 
red shoulder width. O is scye depth above L. 
Measure from the centre of M O down to V 
V2 over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, in 
the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. 
Make U from F, i/^ over-shoulder less 1 inch. 
X from G is made V2 over-shoulder less 3^ in. 
Curve the back side seam from V through U 

and X. Hollow back seam % of a in. 
Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting 
or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N 
and N-L must be left on. 

THE FORE-PART. 
Place the back pattern on another piece of 

paper and continue the lines F and G. 
From W to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z 
represents the difference between 1/2 over- 
shoulder and 14 waist. 

1 is placed 3 mches from Z. Square up and 
down from 1 to 2 and 3. Star is 1/2 ovei - 
shoulder from 2; 10 from STAR is 2 inches. 
15 from STAR is Vi waist and 1 in. 
4 from F is over-shoulder and 1 in. (4 seams.) 
T from B is Vi waist measure. 
Place the square with the long arm on T, the 

corner resting on J ; and square out to 5. 
J to J J is 1 in. (4 seams.) .5 is V2 over-shoul- 
der from .1.1. 8 is V2 inch (2 seams. 1 above 



101/4 in. 


Strap measure 


18 ,, 


Breast measure 


32 ,, 


Waist measure 


20 ,, 


Seat measure 


131/2,. 





147/8 in 
44 „ 
43 ,, 
46 ,. 



J J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 
6, 1/3 over-shoulder and I/2 in. above 5. 
BP is one sixth breast b?low 5. Rule from L 
over BP to I. Measure from D at the back 
seam over L and BP to I, — I/2 breast mea- 
sure and 3 in. 
What 1/2 seat measure exceeds I/2 waist mea- 
sure is called:— "excess. "— In this case the 
excess is 3i/^ inches. 
Mark 7, Vi over-shoulder below Q; take out 1 

inch at 7, and % in. from U to K. 
Measure the back from W to X, place that 
quantity on Z and make 19 1/2 seat and V^ 
in. Curve the fore part side seam from V, 
through K and 19 to 13. 
Sway the back with point N on J, and A res- 
ting on the cross line squared out from 6. 
With the back pattern in this position, rule 
lines from A to S, and from the waist line 
at 10, up to C. 
9 is the crossing point of these two lines. 
Mark 11 the same quantity above 5, as N is a- 
bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from 
C, through 9 and 11. 
Mark 12 as much from 8 as the back on the line 

J E, is made from J. 
Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over 
the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- 
ting 17, on the line C-10. 
Curve the scye as indicated. 
The broken line as ruled down from A at the 
cross-line at 6 through I indicates the arching 
of the chest; point I is the most forward part 
of chest. Cut broken line from top of lapel 
to I; thereafter pleat B over to 15 this will 
open the lapel the exact amout -the place for 
(V) is not tied down to the broken line A I, 
but can be placed at the option of the cutter; 
an effective curved (V) is shown per broken 
lines. To take away the superfluously mate- 
rial below the waist-line a line is squared down 
by the waist-line through frontedge of pocket 
to EE; thereafter squared down by lire J J 5 
crossing the EE line at BC. Cut hip cut from 
OZ and also pocket-mouth; this will enable to 
pin or fod broken line AA over to EE. 
Comple'Le to style. 



i 



STOUT MAN'S S. B. SACK-COAT. 



15 




16 



TALL FIGURE 

WITH 

SLOOPING SHOULDERS AND PROMINENT HIPS. 



MEASUREM ENTS. 



Scve depth 

Natural waist length 

Full length 

Over-shoulder 
Blade measure 



11 in. 

181/2.. 

323/4,. 
173/4,. 
121/2,. 



THE BACK-PART. 



Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul- 
der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- 
ural waist length. C to BB full length. 

B to F is one inch. Place E V3 over-shoulder 

above D. Rule from E through F to G. 
Mark G y-i ovp --shoulder below F. 
Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line. 

G to W is 114 inches. 

Place J from E, 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. 

Square up and down from J to M and L. 

L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. 

N is midway between M and J. 

Connect A and N. 

P from E is 1/2 over-shoulder less 3^ inch. 

Q from D 14 over-shoulder less 1 inch. 

Rule fiom Q through P. R is Vi over-shoul- 
der above Q; S'is V^ over-shoulder above 
R. Rule from A through S. On this line 
from A, apply scye depth and 1 in. or desi- 
red shoulder width. O is scye depth above L. 

Measure from the centre of M O down to V 
1/2 over-shoulder less V^ inch; locating V, in 
the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. 

Make U from F, 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. 

X from G is made i/^ over- shoulder less 3^ in. 

Curve the back side seam from V through U 
and X. Hollow back seam % of a in. 

Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting 
or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N 
and N-L must be left on. 

THE FORE-PART. 

Place the back pattern on another piece of 
paper and continue the lines F and G. 

From W to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z 
represents the difference between 1/2 over- 
shoulder and y^ waist. 

1 is placed 3 inches from Z. Square up and 
down from 1 to 2 and 3. Star is 1/2 over- 
shoulder from 2; 10 from star is 2 inches. 

15 from star is % waist and 1 in. 

4 from F is over-shoulder and 1 in. (4 seams.) 

T from B is Vi waist measure. 

Place the square with the long arm on T, the 
corner resting on .1 ; and square out to ^. 



Strap measure 
Breast measure 
Waist measure 
Seat measure 



123^ in- 
38 ,. 
36 ,, 
421/2 .. 



J to JJ is 1 in. (4 seams.) 5 is 1/2 over-shoul- 
der from JJ. 8 is V2 inch (2 seams.) above 
J J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 
6, 1/3 over-shoulder and 1/2 in. above 5. 

BP is one sixth breast b3low 5. Rule from L 
over BP to I. Measure from D at the back 
seam over L and BP to I, — 1/2 breast mea- 
sure and 3 in. 

What 1/2 seat measure exceeds V^ waist mea- 
sure is called:— "excess. "— In this case the 
excess is 314 inches. 

[IN A CASE LIKE THIS WHERE 1/2 SEAT 
1/2 WAIST MORE THAN 2 IN. EXCEEDS, 

AND NO SEAM RUNS DOWN OVER THE 

HIPS, THE BACK PATTERN IS SHOVED 

BACK THE EXCEEDING AMOUNT less 1/2 

INCH (3/4 inch in this case.) FROM J TO J 

AND FROM L TO L.] 

Mark 7, 14 over-shoulder below Q; take out 1 
inch at 7, and y^ in. from U to K. 

Measure the back from W to X, place that 
quantity on Z and make 19 1/2 seat and 1/2 
in. Curve the fore part side seam from V, 
through K and 19 to 13. 

Sway the back with point N on J, and A res- 
ting on the cross line squared out from 6. 

With the back pattern in this position, rule 
lines from A to S, and from the waist line 
at 10, up to C. 

9 is the crossing point of these two lines. 

Mark 11 the same quantity above 5, as N is a- 
bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from 
C, through 9 and 11. 

Mark 12 as much from 8 as the back on the line 
J E, is made from J. 

Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over 
the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- 
ting 17, on the line C-lO. 

Curve the scye as indicated. 

Complete to style. 

The space, wich J and L being shoved back, 
must be taken out of the under arm or hip 
cut; with the understanding, that it runs 

parallel down from the scye to the waist line; 

springing out in the pocket mouth. 



TALL FIGURE WITH SLOOPING SHOULDERS 

AND PROMINENT HIPS. 




18 



SACK-COAT 

FOR 

HIGH SHOULDERED FIGURE. 

MEASUREMENTS. 



Scye depth 

Natural waist length 

Full length 

Over-shoulder 
Blade measure 



8 in. 


Strap measure 


... 161/4,, 


Breast measure 


... 29 ,, 


Waist measure 


... 171/4., 


Seat measure 


... 111/4 „ 





123/4 in. 

36 ,, 
32 ,, 

37 .. 



A is one sixth over-shoulder above C. 
B ,, natural waist length from C. 

BB is full length from C. 

C is one sixth over-shoulder below A. 

D ,, scye depth below C. 

E ,, 1/3 over-shoulder above D. 

F ,, 1 inch from B. 

G is 1/2 over-shoulder below F. 

H ,, located by an square line ruled down from 

E by ,1 and E. 
I is 1 inch from liS. 

J is 1/2 over-shoulder and 1/2 in. from E. 
JJ is 1 inch (4 seams.) from J. 
K is % inch from U. 
L ,, squared down from J by J and E. 
^ << V2 over-shoulder plus I/2 inch above L. 
N is midway J and M and connected with A. 

,, scye depth above L. 

f* ., 1/2 over-shoulder less % in. from E. 
Q ,. i/i over-shoulder less 1 in. from D. 
R ., V4 over-shoulder above Q. 

5 ., Vs over-shoulder above R. 
T ,, Vi waist from B. 

U ,. 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 in. from F. 

V is 1/2 over-shoulder below the centre of M- 
O, less 1/2 in. 

W is 11/4 in. from G. 

X ,, made i^ seat from G. 

Y is over-shoulder from W. 

Z ,, the difference between V^ over-shoulder 

and 14 waist from Y. 
STAR is 1/2 over-shoulder from 2. 
BP is one sixth breast below 5. 

1 is ;{ inches from Z. 

2 .. squared uj) by W and 1. 

.3 ., squared down by W and 1. 
4 ., over-shoulder from F and 1 in. (4 seams) 
.5 , , squared by T and J and 1/2 over-shoulder 
from J . 

6 is 1/3 over-shoulder and 1/2 inch above 5. 



7 is V4 over-shoulder below Q. 1 inch is taken 
out at 7 between back and fore part 

8 is Vi in. (2 seams.) above JJ. 

9 is the crossing point of the lines A-S, 10-C 
through which the neck circle is curved. 

10 is 2 inches from STAR. 



11 .. 

12 .. 
the 

1.5 is 
16 



as much above 5. as N is above J. 
as much from JJ as the back edge on 
line J-E is made from J. 
1/4 waist and 1 inch from STAR, 
the centre point of the shoulder. 

17 ,, located by the direct strap measure from 
D when the back is laid in the shoulder clo- 
sed position; deviations in regard to the up- 
per structure, included "Stooping, head for 
or backward, large or flat blades etc. "have 
to be worked out from this point; it must 
however be under stood that deviations are 
being determined by the direct measures. 

17-C by way of the direct strap measure indi- 
cates the deviations in the upper structure 
of shoulders neck and blades. 

Apply strap measure up from 17 to C, with- 
out addition; raise or lower the line A— S as 
much in parallel as the direct strap measure 
may determine; if direct strap is less, one 
half of it is added to roundness of the blade 
the other half is added to the roundness of 
shoulder seam. 

In cases where the strap reaches beyond C, 
the process must be worked out in the op- 
posite way. 

18 is Vi breast plus 2 inches from U. 

19 is 1/2 seat less back quantity W-X. from Z. 
In sack-coats where V^ seat 1/2 waist-mea- 
sure not more than 2 in. exceeds, nothing 
needs to be taken out of hip-cut. 

Correct fronts are obtained in the same way 
as explained on pages 10 and 40. Add. for 
over-lap from center line according to style. 



HIGH SHOULDERED FIGURE. 




20 STOOPING OR ROUND BACK FIGURES. 



In daily practice these figures we meet in a great varity of form and attitudes— it 
is important in those kind of figures to observe where the deviation or roundness is 
most remarkable; — the rest will be envolved by the system it self. It is a natural 
phenomeon that an round back furnishes a larger over-shoulder than should have been 
the case were the figure of a normal or erect attitude. (The dotted lines in Dia. illu- 
strate the outline of upper structure for a figure having the same over-shoulder mea- 
sure, but with a regular attitude. ) The enlarged over-shoulder measure widens the 
spaces E— J, and JJ— 5; and accordingly to this, it moves point 6 in a more forward 
position. The longer scye depth provides a longer distance A— N, and this in connec- 
tion with point 8, provides for a more shoved forward neck-part; it also with regard 
to 10 and C, performs a more bringing forward of the front of scye. The application 
of direct strap-measure restores the distances 5 -6 and L -J which for this fore-part 
shoulder is to large; — the direct strap measure lowers line A— 8 in parallel, but it must 
be understood that, although the length of line 17— C has to be shortened and also on 
the arm-side of fore part, the distance 17— D has to remain intact. The distance be- 
tween the parallel lines on the centre of the shoulder must be divided equally and, on 
the blades, and on the shoulder; —where this dividing on the blades in the real sence 
is not an as easy matter as for a "Frock-coat," the quantity is added to back seam or 
crease; the other half is left on the shoulder which provides for a more close fitting 
neck-part and on arm-side. 



SLEEVES. 



LADIES and MEN'S SLEEVES are both Curve the sleeve head from A through H, G 
the same in construction. to L. Measure fore-armlength from E to B. 
Square out and down from A to C and B. At the length even if reaching below or above 
A to D is IVi in. D to B is over-shoulder. B, square out to O by E— B line. 
A to C is 14 over-shoulder. Rule from B Make B to O width of the bottom. From E 
through C to G, locating E. E to F is Vi to P is the difference between scye-depth 
over-shoulder. and natural waist-length. ( Letter P is mis- 
Square out from F to H and J. Place G as sing in this Dia. but her position will be 
much above F, as 12 in the fore part pat- known as it is understood that Q is squared 
tern is made from 8. (or, from J in coats out from P by E B line. ) Make Q from P, 
where not for seams is allowed as usually the same as from B. 

not is done in "Ladies" coats.) Chalk from L through Q to O; and from K 

Mark H and J each one-sixth over-shoulder to Q. Mark S V2 in- inside of R. 

from F. J to K is 1 inch; J to L the same. Curve from A through S and B; add 1 inch 
From A to N is 1/2 in. more than the distance beyond this for the top, and go 1 inch in- 
between 17 and Q in the coat pattern. wards for under sleeve. 



22 



OVER-COAT. 



The over-coat is also measured over vest as this is the best way to obtain correct measures. 
Add. to scye depth 1/2 in., for over-shoulder 3/4 in., for blade 1 in., for stiaj) 1% in. and loi - 
Breast— Waist— and Seat, each 3 inches. 
MEASUREMENTS. 



Scye depth 

Natural waist length 

Full length 

Over-shoulder 
Blade measure 



lU in. Strap measure 

17% ,, Breast measure 

41 ,, Waist measure 

20 ,, Seat measure 
13 ,. 



.1, 



'A I 



42 
44 '/2 



Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul- 
der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- 
ural waist length. C to BB full length. 

B to F is one inch. Place E 1/3 over-shoulder 
above D. Rule from E through F to G. 

Mark G y2 over-shoulder below F. 

Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line. 

G to W is 11/4 inches. 

Place J from E, 1/2 over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch. 

Square up and down from J tc M and L. 

L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch. 

N is midway between M and J. 

Connect A and N. 

P from E is 1/2 over-shoulder less % inch. 

Q from D Va over-shoulder less 1 inch. 

Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the 
back part is squared by this line. 

R is 1/4 over-shoulder above Q; S is Vs over- 
shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. 

On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 
inch or desired shoulder width. is scye 
depth above L. 

Measure from the centre of M down to V, 
1/2 over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, in 
the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. 

Make U from F, 1/2 over-shoulder less 34 in. 

X from G is V2 over-shoulder. Curve the back 

side seam from V through U and X to 22. 
What 1/2 seat measure exceeds 1/2 waist mea- 
sure is called:— "excess."— In this case the 
excess is 23^ inches. 

19 is made the excess from X. 

Mark 7, Vi over-shoulder below Q; take out 1 
inch at 7, and ^4 in. from U to K. 

Shape the fore part side-seam from V through 

7, K and 19 to 13. 
From W to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z 
represents the different between V2 over- 
shoulder and 14 waist. 
1 is placed 3 inches from Z. Square up and 
down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star 1/2 
over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from 
STAR. Mark IB from STAR 1/4 waist mea- 



sure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shculder- 
and 1 in. T from B is V4 waist measure. 
Place the square with the long aim on 1, the 
corner resting on J ; and square out to 5 . 
J J is 1 in. (4 seams.) from J; S is V2 inch 
above JJ. 5 is V2 over-shoulder from J. 
Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6. 73 
over-shoulder and V2 in- above 5. BP is one 
sixth breast b^low 5. Rule from L ovei BP 
to 18. Measure from D at ihe back sea'u 
over L and BP to 18, the V2 breast measure 
plus 3 in. 
Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting 
or tracing out the back, the piece C-A. A-N 
and N-L must be left on. 
Sway the back with point N on J, and A tes- 
ting on the cross line squared out from 6. 
With the back pattern in this position, rule 
lines from A to S, and from the waist line 
at 10, up to C. 
9 is the crossing point of these two lines. 
Mark 11 the same quantity above 5. as N is a- 
bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from 
C, through 9 and 11. 
Mark 12 as much from 8 as the back on the line 

J E, is made from J. 
Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over 
the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- 
ting 17, on the line C-10. 
Curve the arm hole through the guiding points 

as shown. 
It is not a necessity to cut a V in top of lapd 
or to pleat over the under part;— as shown 
in this Dia. the broken line is lultdstraigth 
down from A to 15 on the waist-line. 
Having shaped front and gorge, the broken 
line may be cut to 15; inoving that line with 
15 holding in its place over to 1 in. beyond 
18, it opens the lapel in an V which avoids 
working in with stay-tape. —Those who pre- 
fer to work up .the fronts, care must be used 
to have them worked shoit the just amount. 
Make lower part of front, pai'allel with 2—1. 



S. B. OVER COAT- 




24 



SLIP-ON. 



MEASUREMENTS. 



Scye depth 

Natural waist length 

Full length 

Over-shoulder 
Blade measure 



10 in. 

17y4 ,, 
44 ,, 
20 ,, 
13 ,. 



Strap measure 
Breast measure 
Waist measure 
Seat measure 



14 
42 
38 

44 



The same additions as given on foregoing 
page hold good for the different measures in 
this kind of coats. 

Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul- 
der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- 
ural waist length. C to BB full length. 
B to F is one inch. Place E Vs over-shoulder 

above D. Rule from E through F to G. 
Mark G V^ over-shoulder below F. 
Square out from E, H,F and G by E-G line. 
G to W is 1% inches. 

Place J from E, y^ over-shoulder plus V2 inch. 
Square up and down from J tc M and L. 
L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. 
N is midway between M and J. 
Connect A and N. 

P from E is V2 over-shoulder less % inch. 
Q from D V2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. 
Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the 

back part is squared by this line. 
R is Vi over-shoulder above Q; S is Vs over- 
shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. 
On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 
inch or desired shoulder width. O is scye 
depth above L. 
To produce the desired fulness on back and 
round hips, the blade measure has to undergo 
an increasing by way of space U K; which in 
this case amounts 2V2 in. while V2 seat mea- 
sure has undergone 3 times that much which 
brings the "excess" up to IOV2 inches. In this 
case the scye dei)th is lowerd IV2 in. As will 
be observed, the front of scye remains intact 
as do all other fitting points; the only altera- 
tion this coat diagram has under gone is in its 
style. X and 22 are located by ruling down 
from N through K, while the bottom curve to 
22 is obtained by sweeping out with S as an 
pivot, from where the line S Q crosses the 



length. 19 is made the excess from X. 

From U is ruled down through 19 to 13. 

From W to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z 
represents the different between 1/2 over- 
shoulder and 14 waist. 

1 is placed 3 inches from Z. Square up and 
down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star 1/2 
over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from 
STAR. Mark 15 from star 14 waist mea- 
sure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shoulder- 
and 1 in. T from B is Vi waist measure. 

Place the square with the long arm on T, the 
corner resting on J ; and square out to 5 . 
J J is 1 in. (4 seams.) from J; 8 is V2 inch 
above JJ. 5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from J. 
Rule up from 4 thi-ough 5 to 6; placing 6, Va 
over-shoulder and V2 in. above 5. BP is one 
sixth breast b3low 5. Rule from L over BP 
to 18. Measure from D at the back seam 
over L and BP to 18, the y2 breast measure 
plus 3 in. 

Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting 
or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N 
and N-L must be left on. 

Sway the back with point N on J, and A res- 
ting on the cross line squared out from 6. 

With the back pattern in this position, rule 
lines from A to S, and from the waist line 
at 10, up to C. 

9 is the crossing point of these two lines. 

Mark 11 the same quantity above 5, as N is a- 
bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from 
C, through 9 and 11. 

Mark 12 as much from 8 as the back on the line 
J E, is made from J. 

Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over 
the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- 
ting 17, on the line C-10. 

Curve the scye as indicated. 

Complete to style. 



SLIP-ON. 




26 



THE LOWER SIDE. 



figures in which one side or shoulder is lower 
than the other, there usually are (2) different 
eye -depths and also (two) over-shoulder mea- 
sures. The lower side usually shows more 
scye-depth and a larger over-shoulder. 
The Diagram is constructed by a difference 
of one inch in scye depth the over-shoulder is 
increased the same quantity for that side. 
The different measurements of course, need 



each apart attention or two drawings. When 
one understands the construction of previous 
Diagrams, he cannot go astray with this one. 
Special attention is called to che V in top of 
the lapel, which is only cut in for the higher 
side which is in accordance to the given con- 
structions with regard to broken line from A 
through 1 thus, what will be noticed restoring 
equilibrium again with regard to top button. 



V ESTS. 



Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul- 
der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- 
ural waist length. B to F is one inch. 

Place E 1/3 over-shoulder above D. Rule from 
E through to F. Square out from E,H,F. 

Place J from E, 1/2 over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch. 

Square uj) and down from J to M and L. 

L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. 

N is midway between M and J. 

Connect A and N. 

P from E is V2 over-shoulder less % inch. 

Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. 

Rule from Q through P. R is 14 over-shoul- 
der above Q; S is Vfe over-shoulder above 
R. Rule from A through S. On this line 
from A, apply scye depth or desired shoul- 
width. is scye depth above L. 

Measure from the centre of M O down to V 
V2 over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, in 
the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. 

Make U from B, 1/2 over-shoulder and IV2 in. 

Mark 7 % over-shoulder below the scye-depth 
line. Curve the back from scye through U. 

From B to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z 
represents the different between V2 over- 
shoulder and i/i waist. 

4 from F is over-shoulder and V2 in. (2 seams) 
T from B is Vi waist measure. Z from 2 is 
2^4 inches. Star is V2 over-shoulder from 2. 

10 is 2 inches from STAR. Place the square 
with the long arm on T, the corner resting 
on .1 ; and square out to r,. .1 to .J.J is 1/2 in. 



(2 seams.) 8 is V2 in. above JJ. n is V2 over- 
shoulder from JJ. Rule up from 4 through 
5 to 6; placing 6, V3 over-shoulder and V2 in. 
above 5. BP is one sixth breast b?low .5. 

Rule from L over BP to 18. Measure from D 
at the back seam over L and BP to 18, the 
1/2 breast measure plus IV2 in. 

Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting 
or tracing out the back, the jiiece C-A, A-N 
and N-L must be left ^m. 

Sway the back with point N on J, and A res- 
ting on the cross line squared out from 6. 

With the back pattern in this position, rule 
lines from A to S, and from the waist line 
at 10, up to C. 

9 is the crossing point of these two lines. 

Rule a straigth line from A at the cross line 
through 18. Mark star Vi waist measure 
from 15; what 1.5 falls inside of this broken 
line can be taken out from under the most 
prominent part of chest. Apply opening and 
length; add V2 in. for over lap. Shape scye, 
side seam and bottom. Take out V2 in. at 7 
the other V2 in. is taken on the same level 
out of back-seam or by way of a V as indi- 
cated. For corpulent or stout waisted figu- 
res, square down by waist-line at 4 and also 
by J— 5 line, crossing the same point as is 
desribed in SACK-COATS. 



28 



MILITARY TUNIC. 

MEASUREMENTS. 



Scye depth 


... 93/4 in. 


Strap measure 


Natural waist length 


. ... 17 ,, 


Breast measure 


Full length 


. ... 281/2 „ 


Waist measure 


Over-shoulder 


. ... 173/4.. 


Seat measure 


Blade measure 


. ... 113/4.. 





121/4 in. 
38 ,. 
34 ,, 
40 ,. 



Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul- 
der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- 
ural waist length. C to BB full length. 

B to F is one inch. Place E 1/3 over-shoulder 
above D. Rule from E through F to G. 

Mark G V2 over-shoulder below F. 

Square out from E.H.F and G by E-G line. 

G to W is IVi inches. 

Place J from E. V2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. 

Square up and down from J to M and L. 

L to M is V2 over-shoulder plus V^ inch. 

N is midway between M and J. 

Connect A and N. 

P from E is V2 over-shoulder less 3^ inch. 

Q from D V2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. 

Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the 
back part is squared by this line. 

R is 14 over-shoulder above Q; S is Vfe over- 
shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. 

On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 
inch or desired shoulder width. O is scye 
depth above L. 

Measure from the centre of M O down to V. 
1/2 over-shoulder less V^ inch; locating V, in 
the centre of the lines M-L.and P-Q. 

Make 20 to taste; (in this case 20 is made 
midway between Q and D; 21 one sixth over- 
shoulder from B, X from W a trifle more. ) 

Curv« side-body from R through 20, 21 and 
X to bottom. Mark 7, V4 over-shoulder be- 
low 20; take out 1 inch at 7. and IVi inches 
from 21 to 23. 

The hip or seat measure must be divided be- 
tween W and Z. 

From W to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z 
represents the different between V2 over- 
shoulder and 14 waist. 

What V^ seat measure exceeds V2 waist mea- 
sure is called:— "excess. "— In this case the 
excess is 3 inches. 

In this case HI is made Vi seat and 1 in. from 
W. KL is made the difference between y^ 
seat and Vi waist from HI. 

If -excess- is placed on hips, and close fitting 

round seat is desired, in such a case point 19 
has to fall on X. 



Curve from V^ inch above R through 20, 7, 23 
and 19 to 13. Curve also down from scye 
through HI and KL. 

1 is placed 3 inches from Z. Sqaure up and 
down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star V2 
over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from 
STAR. Mark 15 from star 14 waist mea- 
sure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shoulder- 
and 1 in. T from B is Vi waist measure. 

Place the square with the long arm on T, the 
corner resting on J ; and square out to 5 . 
J J is 1 in. (4 seams.) from J; 8 is V^ inch 
above JJ. 5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from J. 
Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6. V3 
over-shoulder above 5. BP is one sixth breast 
b^low 5. Rule from L over BP to 18. 

Measure from D at the back seam over L and 
BP to I. the 1/2 breast measure plus 3 in. 

Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting 
or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N 
and N-L must be left on. 

Sway the back with point N on J. and A res- 
ting on the cross line squared out from 6. 

With the back pattern in this position, rule 
lines from A to S, and from the waist line 
at 10, up to C. 

9 is the crossing point of these two lines. 

Mark 11 the same quantity above 5. as N is a- 
bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from 
C, through 9 and 11. 

Mark 12 as much from J as the back on the line 
J E, is made from J. 

Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over 
the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- 
ting 17, on the line C-10. 

Curve the arm hole through the guiding points 
as shown. 

Rule a straight line from A at the cross line 
through I —what this line on the waist line 
falls beyond 15, is for % of it taken out on 
top dismissing in the breast pocket, the rest 
from under the most prominent part of the 
chest as shown; — or, cut the pattern from 
gorge through centre of pockets, put a pin 
in at the line L — BP, and move the centre 
line to run parallel with line 1 — 2. 



MILITARY TUNIC. 




30 



COLLARS. 



With the pattern laying in the shoulder clo- 
sed position, sweep from C through E. 
Mark F Vi over-shoulder below C. E from C 
depth of stand; G from F the same. 
With the one arm of the square touching G 
and E, square out to D and extend that line 
lO J; from E to J is stand-depth, E— J leaf- 
edge. Mark of turn at K and chalk from G 



to K. Mark H from G as much as G is from 
F; — fold the lapel to K, and trace from L to 
H. Shape back-side according to style. 
In military collars to provide for more length 
on shoulders to avoid to much stretching, the 
back line J — D is squared out by F— E. 
Apply length F— Y from G to K. L is Vi in- 
above K. Complete as indicated. 



MILITARY-OVERCOAT. 



A is one sixth over-shoulder above C. 

B ,, natural waist length from C. 

BB is full length from C. 

C is one sixth over-shoulder below A. 

D ,, scye depth below C. 

E ,, V3 over-shoulder above D. 

F ,, 1 inch from B. 

G is V2 over-shoulder below F. 

H ,, located by an square line ruled down from 

E by J and E. 
J is V^ over-shoulder and 1/2 in. from E. 
JJ is 1 inch (4 seams.) from J. 
I is is 1/2 breast plus 3 inches from D. 
L ,, squared down from J by J and E. 
M ,, V2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch above L. 
N is midway J and M and connected with A. 

,, scye depth above L. 

P ,, V2 over-shoulder less % in. from E. 

Q .. V2 over-shoulder less 1 in. from D. 

R ,. Vi over-shoulder above Q. 

S ,, 14 over-shoulder above R. 

T ,, Vi waist from B. 

U ,, V^ over-shoulder less 1 in. from F. 

W is IVi in. from G. 

X ,, made Vi seat from G. 

Y is over-shoulder from W. 

Z ,, the difference between V2 over-shoulder 

and 14 waist from Y. 
STAR is 1/2 over-shoulder from 2. 
BP is one sixth breast below 5. 

1 is 3 inches from Z. 

2 ,. squared up by W and 1. 

3 ,, squared down by W and 1. 

4 ,, over-shoulder from F and 1 in. (4 seams) 

5 ,, squared by T and J and 1/2 over-shoulder 



from J J. 

6 is V3 over-shoulder and V^ inch above 5. 

7 is Vi over-shoulder below Q. 1 inch is taken 
out at 7 between back and fore part 

8 is 1/2 in- (2 seams.) above JJ. 

9 is the crossing point of the lines A-S, 10-C 
through which the neck circle is curved. 

10 is 2 inches from STAR. 

11 ,, as much above 5, as N is above J. 

12 ,, as much from J J as the back edge on 
the line J-E is made from J. 

15 is 14 waist and 1 inch from STAR. 

16 ,, the centre point of the shoulder. 

17 ,, located by the direct strap measure from 
D when the back is laid in the shoulder clo- 
sed position; deviations in regard to the up- 
per structure, included "Stooping, head for 
or backward, large or flat blades etc. "have 
to be worked out from this point; it must 
however be under stood that deviations are 
being determined by the direct measures. 

17-C by way of the direct strap measure indi- 
cates the deviations in the up)per structure 
of shoulders neck and blades. 

Apply strap measure up from 17 to C, with- 
out addition; raise or lower the line A — S as 
much in parallel as the direct strap measure 
may determine; if direct strap is less, one 
half of it is added to roundness of the blade 
the other half is added to the roundness of 
shoulder seam. 

In cases where the strap reaches beyond C, 
the process must be worked out in the op- 
posite way. 

19 is V^ seat less back quantity W-X, from Z. 



32 



TROUSERS. 



CORPULENT MAN'S TROUSERS. 



RIDING BREECHES. REGULAR PANTS. 



Outside length 431/2 in- 

Inseam 32 ,, 

Waist 49 ,, 

Seat 50 ,, 

Knee 221/2 ,, 

Bottom 18 ,, 

Square out and down from A to B and C. 
A to B is Vi seat; A— C out-side length; C— D 
in-seam; E is Vfe proportion waist above D. 
( 1/2 proportion waist is adequate to over-shoul- 
der, less 1 inch.) H is midway G and B. Mark 
I from C as much as H is from A; draw a 
line from H to I locating N. C to L is % 
waist. Raise BC as much above L, as L is 
from B. Square down from B to J by A — B 
Mark K Vfe seat out from J; curve fly- front as 
indicated from BC to K. Make M and O Vi 
knee each from N; P and Q each Vi bottom 
less Vi inch from I. Shape side seam from a 
i/j inch above G through E and O to Q; also 
in-seam from K, through M to P. Take out 
V2 inch for dress. 

THE BACK-PART. 

Extend the lines A-B, E, M-0 and P-Q. 

Mark R Vi proportion waist above J. 

Square out from R to S by J-B. S from R, is 
the difference between 14 proportion waist, 
and Vi seat plus V2 in. Mark T from S, V4 
seat and one inch, plus distance B, L. Place 
the square with one arm touching J and S, 
the other resting on T and square out; this 
will locate U. Measure waist from L to G 
and T to U and take out the surplus (that is 
what that measure the waist measure more 
than 1 inch exceeeds;) in a V as indicated. 

Mark W from V 14 seat plus 2 inches; X from 
K is 1 inch; Y from M and Z from O, each 
V^ inch. 1 from P, and 2 from Q, each 1 in. 





35 y2 


42 




26 


321/2 




30 


36 




88 


40 




13 


19 


Calf 


131/2 


Bottom 15 


Ankle 


10 





RIDING BREECHES. 

Riding breeches are practically the same in 
construction as regular trousers but, as more 
ease round seat and hips is needed, the dis- 
tance R— S is determined by a larger seat cir- 
cumference; say two inches more. The distan- 
ce J to K, may also be made accordingly to a 
larger seat. A allowance is made on the hips 
beyond E, which in this case is made two in. 

In drawing the back-part, the distance R — S 
becomes more extended by applying for this 
the larger seat-measure which, accordingly to 
this, moves U so much higher. The distance 
S— T, is applied by actual seat-measure. 
N is obtained by placing F as much from D, 
as H is from A; 1/2 inseam length is applied 
from line V-E. The bottom part is measured 
up accordingly to size of knee, calf and ankle; 
taking out the biggest cut on back of ankle. 



For regular and other pants, follow same in- 
structions as desribed for corpulent man's.— 



TROUSERS. 



33 




34 



LADIES' SEMI FITTING COAT 
WITH FRENCH SEAM. 

MEASUREMENTS. 



Scye depth 

Natural waist length 

Full length 

Over-shoulder 
Blade measure 



71/2 

15 

29 

16 

10% 



Strap measure 
Breast measure 
Waist measure 
Seat measure 



11% in. 
38 ,, 
29 ,, 
37 .. 



Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul. 
der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- 
ural waist length. C to BB full length. 

B to F is one inch. Place E Va over-shoulder 
above D. Rule from E through F to G. 

Mark G 1/2 over-shoulder below F. 

Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line. 

G to W is IVi inches. 

Place J from E, V2 over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch. 

Square up and down from J to M and L. 

L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. 

N is midway between M and J. 

Connect A and N. 

P from E is V^ over-shoulder less % inch. 

Q from I) 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. 

Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the 
back part is squared by this line. 

R is Vi over-shoulder above Q; S is Vfe over- 
shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. 

On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 
inch or desired shoulder width. O is scye 
depth above L. 

Measure from the centre of M down to V, 
V2 over-shoulder less V^ inch; locating V, in 
the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. 

Make 20 to style or taste; (in this case 20 is 
halfway Q and D; 21 one sixth over-shoul- 
der from B, X from W a trifle more.) 

Curve from line A-N down through 20, 21 and 
X to bottom. Mark 7, Vi over-shoulder be- 
low 20; take out 1 inch at 7, and IVi inches 
from 21 to 23. 

The hip or seat measure must be divided be- 
tween W and Z. 

From W to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z 
represents the different between V2 over- 
shoulder and Vi waist. 

What 1/2 seat measure exceeds V2 waist mea- 
sure is called:— "excess. "— In this case the 
excess is 4 inches. 

In this case HI is made V4 seat from W. 

KL is made the excess from HI. 

Place the distance X-W on Z, and make 19, 
Vi seat measure less the excess. 



Curve from 20 through 7, 23 and 19 to 13. 

Curve also down from scye through HI and 
KL. 

1 is placed 2 inches from Z. Sqaure up and 
down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star V^ 
over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from 
STAR. Mark 15 from star 14 waist mea- 
sure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shoulder. 

T from B is 14 waist measure. 

Place the square with the long arm on T, the 
corner resting on J ; and square out to 5. 

5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from J. Rule up from 
4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, V3 over-shoulder 
above 5. BP is one sixth bust b^low 5. 

Rule from L over BP to 18. 

Measure from D at the back seam over L and 
BP to 18, the '/2 breast measure plus 2 in. 

Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting 
or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N 
and N-L must be left on. 

Sway the back with point N on J, and A res. 
ting on the cross line squared out from 6. 

With the back pattern in this position, rule 
lines from A to S, and from the waist line 
at 10, up to C. 

9 is the crossing point of these two lines. 

Mark 11 the same quantity above 5, as N is a- 
bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from 
C, through 9 and 11. 

Mark 12 as much from J as the back on the line 
J E, is made from J. 

Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over 
the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- 
ting 17, on the line C-10. 

Curve the arm hole through the guiding points 
as shown. 

Rule a straight line from A at the cross line 
through 18 to 3; the distance which this on 
the waistline falls beyond 15, is for % of it 
taken out of bust seam. The waistline runs 
parallel with the line L — BP. Mark 26 1 in. 
more below 4 as BB is from B. 

Add for overlap and shape front and bottom. 

(See article for more details on page 47.) 



LADIES' SEMI-FITTING COAT WITH FRENCH SEAM. 




36 CLOSE FITTING COAT for STOUT LADIES' FIGURES. 



MEASUREMENTS. 



Scye depth 

Natural waist length 

Full length 

Over-shoulder 
Blade measure 



81/4 

16 

31 

18 

121/4 



Strap measure 
Breast measure 
Waist measure 
Seat measure 



127/8 in- 
47 ,. 
36 ., 
50 .. 



Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul. 
der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- 
ural waist length. C to BB full length. 
B to F is one inch. Place E Va over-shoulder 

above D. Rule from E through F to G. 
Mark G V2 over-shoulder below F. 
Square out from E. H,F and G by E-G line. 
G to W is 114 inches. 

Place J from E, V2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. 
Square up and down from J to M and L. 
L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. 
N is midway between M and J. 
Connect A and N. 

P from E is V2 over-shoulder less "^/^ inch. 
Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. 
Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the 

back part is squared by this line. 
R is 14 over-shoulder above Q; S is Vfe over- 
shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. 
On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 
inch or desired shoulder width. O is scye 
depth above L. 
Measure from the centre of M O down to V, 
V^ over-shoulder less '/2 inch; locating V, in 
the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. 
Make 20 to style or taste; (in this case 20 is 
halfway Q and D; 21 one sixth over-shoul- 
der from B, X from W a trifle more. ) 
Curve from line A-N down through 20, 21 and 
X to bottom. Mark 7, 14 over-shoulder be- 
low 2S)\ take out 1 inch at 7, and I14 inches 
from 21 to 23. 
The hip or seat measure must be divided be- 
tween W and Z. 
From W to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z 
represents the different between V2 over- 
shoulder and 14 waist. 
What '/2 seat measure exceeds 1/2 waist mea- 
sure is called:— "excess. "— In this case the 
exf'ess is 7 inches. 
In this case HI is made '/i over-shoulder from 
G. KL is made the difference between % 
sea" and 14 waist from HI. Make hip lines 
the excess apart, less the distance HI, KL. 
If -excess- is placed on hips, and close fitting 
round seat is desired, in such a case point 19 
has <^() fall on X, 
Curve from 20 through 7. 2-! nnd 19 to V.\. 



Curve also down from scye through HI and 

KL. 
1 is placed 2 inches from Z. Sqaure up and 
down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star 1/2 
over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from 
STAR. Mark 15 from star Vi waist mea- 
sure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shoulder. 
T from B is Vi waist measure. 
Place the square with the long arm on T, the 

corner resting on J ; and square out to 5. 
5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from J. Rule up from 
4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, Vs over-shoulder 
above 5. BP is one sixth bust b3low 5. 
Rule from L over BP to 18. 
Measure from D at the back seam over L and 
BP to 18, the 1/2 breast measure plus 2 in. 
Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting 
or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N 
and N-L must be left on. 
Sway the back with point N on J, and A res- 
ting on the cross line squared out from 6. 
With the back pattern in this position, rule 
lines from A to S, and from the waist line 
at 10, up to C. 
9 is the crossing point of these two lines. 
Mark 11 the same quantity above 5, as N is a- 
bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from 
C, through 9 and 11. 
Mark 12 as much from J as the back on the line 

J E, is made from J. 
Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over 
the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- 
ting 17, on the line C-10. 
Curve the arm hole through the guiding points 

as shown. 
Rule a straight line from A at the cross line 
through 18 to 1 !, locating A on the waist- 
line; the distance 15— A determines the sur- 
plus of front waist; % of this is taken out 
of the first bust-seam the rest Va, is token 
out from C to D— the top of this being lo- 
cated squaring out by the centre front-line 
over BP— on this square the front-piece was 
made V4 over-shoulder. Place the width of 
front- piece, (distance from centre-line to E.) 
behind 1, in this case less two inches which 
is token out of the second space. 
( AlihaheMcaiy d 'sription on page 45.) 



CLOSE FITTING COAT FOR STOUT LADIES FIGURE. 




38 



COAT FOR CORPULENT LADIES' FIGURE. 



Scye depth 

Natural waist length 

Full length 

Over-shoulder 
Blade measure 



MEASUREMENTS. 
7% in. Strap measure 
Breast measure 
Waist measure 
Seat measure 



14 
36 

161/2 
111/2 



Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul- 
der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- 
ural waist length. C to BB full length. 

B to F is one inch. Place E 1/3 over-shoulder 
above D. Rule from E through F to G. 

Mark G 1/2 over-shoulder below F. 

Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line. 

G to W is 11/4 inches. 

Place J from E, i/^ over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch. 

Square up and down from J to M and L. 

L to M is 1/^ over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch. 

N is midway between M and J. 

Connect A and N. 

P from E is 1/2 over-shoulder less 3/j inch. 

Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. 

Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the 
back part is squared by this line. 

R is Vi over-shoulder above Q; S is V^ over- 
shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. 

On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 
inch or desired shoulder width. O is scye 
depth above L. 

Measure from the centre of M O down to V, 
1/2 over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, in 
the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. 

Make 20 to style or taste; (in this case 20 is 
14 over-shoulder from D; 21 one sixth over- 
shoulder from B, X from W a trifle more. ) 

Curve from line A-N down through 20, 21 and 
X to bottom. Mark 7, y^ over-shoulder be- 
low 20; take out 1 inch at 7, and IVi inches 
from 21 to 23. 

The hip or seat measure must be divided be- 
tween W and Z. 

From W to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z 
represents the different between 1/2 over- 
shoulder and 14 waist. 

What 1/2 seat measure exceeds 1/2 waist mea- 
sure is called:— "excess. "— In this case the 
excess is 4 inches. 

In this case HI is made 14 seat and 1 in. from 
(i. KL is made the difference between Vi 
seat and Vi waist from HI. 
If -excess- is placed on hips, and close fitting 
round seat is desired, in such a case point 19 
has to fall on X, 

Curve from 20 through 7, 23 and 19 to 1.^. 
Curve also down from scye through HI and 



121/4 in. 
45 ,. 
36 ., 
44 .. 



KL. 

1 is placed 2 inches from Z. Sqaure up and 
down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star i^ 
over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from 
STAR. Mark 15 from STAR 14 waist mea- 
sure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shoulder. 

T from B is 14 waist measure. 

Place the square with the long arm on T. the 
corner resting on J ; and square out to 5. 

5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from J. Rule up from 
4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, 1/3 over-shoulder 
above 5. BP is one sixth bust b?low 5. 

Rule from L over BP to 18. 

Measure from D at the back seam over L and 
BP to 18, the 1/2 breast measure plus 2 in. 

Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting 
or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N 
and N-L must be left ,;n. 

Sway the back with point N on J, and A res- 
ting on the cross line squared out from 6. 

With the back pattern in this position, rule 
lines from A to S, and from the waist line 
at 10, up to C. 

9 is the crossing point of these two lines. 

Mark 11 the same quantity above 5, as N is a- 
bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from 
C, through 9 and 11. 

Mark 12 as much from J as the back on the line 
J E, is made from J. 

Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over 
the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- 
ting 17, on the line C-10. 

Curve the arm hole through the guiding points 
as shown. 

Rule a straight line from A at the cross line 
through 18 to 3, locating 15 on the waist- 
line; what the distance 15— STAR— exceeds 
14 waist and 1 inch is for % of it taken out 
of the bust seam on the waist-line; ( the 
waist-line runs parallel with line L — BP. ) 
the rest I/3, is gathered into fulness, plaited 
or cut out. Mark 26 1 inch more below 4 as 

BB is below B. Having obtained the line to 
26, corpulency must be dealt with in same 
way as in men's coats that's to say. square 
down by natural waist-line and thereafter, 
crossing the same pidnt ;it the waist-line by 
.1 .') lint'. 



COAT FOR CORPULENT LADIES FIGURE. 




40 



LADIES LONG LOOSE-FITTING COAT. 



This Dia. may serve as a example for construction of all loose-fitting coats as well for 
Men's as Ladies'-and special attention is called to the space of 1 inch taken out at 7. 
— Though it may look strange for a loose fitting coat to take any out at that part, it 
nevertheless this, is necessary if a good fitting coat round neck, shoulders, scye and de- 
sired back-effect is wanted ;-omitting this would result in putting the whole neck and 
shoulder part in disorder, while also the so much desired (Balmacaan-effect) would 
stay on the hips; -taking out the space and stretching by meams of hot iron after the 
coat is cut, transfers the flare to back below shoulder-blades; the same happens to the 
fore part. — As one will see, the instructions for this are the same as for the regular 
coats afterward the dotted line marked from N over K is cut, opened up the desired 
amount, say two inches- on the line L— D and a piece is pasted under neath. 



A is one sixth over-shoulder above C. 

B ,, natural waist length from C. 

BE is full length from C. 

C is one sixth over-shoulder below A. 

D ,, scye depth below C. 

E ,, Vs over-shoulder above D. 

F ,, 1 inch from B. 

G is 1/2 over-shoulder below F. 

H ,, located by an square line ruled down from 
E by J and E. 

J is V2 over-shoulder and 1/2 in- from E. 

K is made the desired fulness from L. 

(In this L to K is made 2 in.) rule as shown 
per broken line from N through K, before 
cutting out the back pattern this line is cut 
from bottom to N thereafter opened the de- 
sired quantity and a piece of paper being 
pated or pinned underneath of it. 
Reshape scye and bottom. 

L ,, squared down from J by J and E. 

M ,, 1/2 over-shoulder plus 1/2 i"ch above L. 

N is midway J and M and connected with A. 

,, scye depth above L. 

P ,, 1/2 over-shoulder less % in. from E. 

Q ,, Vz over-shoulder less 1 in. from D. 

R ,, 14 over-shoulder above Q. 

S ,, Vs over-shoulder above R. 

T ,,1/4 waist from B. 

X ,, made Vi seat from G. 

V is 1/2 over-shoulder below the centre of M- 
O, less 1/2 in. 

W is 1V4 in. from G. 

Y is over-shoulder from W. 

Z ,, the difference between V2 over-shoulder 

and Vi waist from Y. 
STAR is 1/2 over-shoulder from 2. 
BP is one sixth breast below 5. 

1 is 2 inches from Z. 

2 ,. squared up by W and 1. 



3 ,, squared down by W and 1. 

4 , , over-shoulder from F. 

5 ,, squared by T and J and V2 over-shoulder 
from J . 

6 is 1/3 over-shoulder above 5. 

7 is Vi over-shoulder below L. 1 inch is taken 
out at 7 between back and fore part, 

9 is the crossing point of the lines A-S, 10-C 
through which the neck circle is curved. 

10 is 2 inches from STAR. 

11 ,, as much above 5, as N is above J. 

12 ,, as much from J, as the back edge on 
the line J-E is made from J. 

15 is Vi waist and 1 inch from STAR. 

16 ,, the centre point of the shoulder. 

17 , , located by the direct strap measure from 
D when the back is laid in the shoulder clo- 
sed position; deviations in regard to the up- 
per structure, inlcuded "Stooping, head for 
or backward, large or flat blades etc". have 
to be worked out from this point; it must 
however be under stood that deviations are 
being determined by the direct measures. 

17-C by way of the direct strap measure indi- 
cates the deviations in the upper structure 
of shoulders neck and blades. 

18 is V2 breast plus 2 inches from D. 

19 is V2 seat less back quantity W-X, and hip 
excess from Z. 

22 is as much from T, as BB is from B and 
ruled straight down from T over X. 

8 is ruled down from A in the shoulder closed 
position through I, and after this centre-line 
is cut from top to I, the lower part must be 
pleated over, to make the centre-line run 
parallel with 2—1 line and which opens the 
top into a V. -As will be understood, this Y 
may be cut from any place of neck-circle or 
shoulder. 



LADIES LONG LOOSE FITTING COAT. 




42 



THE SKIRT. 

MEASUREMENTS. 



Front length 

Hip 

Back 



38 in. 


Waist 


39 ,, 


Hips 


39 ,, 





29 in. 
39 ,, 



TOP-PART. 

Rule line B — C. Square out from B to G. 

B to G is Vi propotion waist. L from G is 14 
measured waist from G. L may fall inside 
or beyond B, that depents on the size of the 
waist, and accordingly to this BC has to be 
lowerd or raised the same amount; ( In this 
case where L falls inside of B, BC is lowerd 
the same amount. ) J is Vi proportion waist 
below BC; C is front-length from BC; X is 
Vs half seat above J; F is midway C and X. 

Square out from X, J, F and C. X to E is V^ 
seat; F to STAR the same; PR from STAR 
is the difference between y^ proportion waist 
and V^ seat. Shape the hip-line from V2 in- 
above G through E and straight down from 
E through PR to M. Apply hiplength to M. 

What L falls inside of B, can be taken out at 
H as shown by 2 and 3; — and conversely, if 
BC falls beyond B, it may be added into it 
which will keep the front-crease straigth. 

The broken line from K to bottom is used to 
adjust the pattern according to style and by 
that line K serves as a pivot, and any style 
can be made without desturbing the fitting. 



BACK-PART. 

Extend lines B, X and J— or, lay front part 
on top. From T to P is 14 seat. W to V is 
14 seat and 2 in. TU is the same amount 
below T, as BC is below B. With the one 
arm of the square resting on TU, and the 
other touching V and P, draw a line from 
TU to U; also from U through V and P to 
Z; the crossing point locates U. 

R is as much from T, as L is from B. 

Curve the hip seam from R to W; N is ruled 
down from T through W, and made to cor- 
respond with the fore-part. Measure up the 
waist and take out the excess from 7 to 9 as 
indicated; apply back-length from U to Z. 
The broken line, even as in the fore part is 
used to meet sugestions of "Fashion." 

It will be seen that the foundation model is a 

narrow one, but as is shown in upper Dia. , it 
holds good for every style of skirt; in above 
illustrated toppart for a circular skirt, the 
points 2—3, G— R and 7—9, are simply laid 
together. The numberous styles, the ever 
changing "Fashion," makes it adviceable 
to use a foundation model by who's aid we 
can speedy preform all that Fashion suggest. 



ALPHABETICAL DESCRIPTION. 



B; from B is squared out and down. 

BC is as much below or above B, as L is in- 
side or beyond B. 

C is front-length from BC. 

E is Vi seat from X. 

F is halfway between C and X. 

G is one half proportion waist from B. 

H is midway B and G. 

J is y^ proportion waist below B. 

K is squared down by B and H. 

L is Vi waist from G. 

M is hi]) length from G. 

PR is the differenec between Vi proportion 
waist and Vi seat from STAR. 

STAR is 14 seat from F. 

2—3 is equal to distance B — L. 



A is the pivot point by which the width of the 
bottom is adjusted and is squared down by 
the centre of R and U when a line is drawn 
from TU to U. 

P is Vi seat from T. 

R is as much from T, as L is from B. 

T by T is squared out and down to P and N. 

U is obtained by laying the square with one 
arm on TU,and the other touching V and P. 

TU is as much below or above T as BC is be- 
low or above B. 

V is 14 seat and 2 in. from W. 

W is Vi proportion waist below T. 

Z is back-length from U. 

7—9 indicates the surplus in back -waist. 



SKIRT. 




J X 



44 ALPHABETICAL DESRIPTION of D.B. FROCK-COAT. 



DIA. ON PAGf: 



A is one sixth over-shoulder above C. 

B ,, natural waist length from C. 

BB is full length from C. 

C is one sixtn over-shoulder below A. 

D ,, scye depth below C. 

E ,, Vs over-shoulder above D. 

F ,, 1 inch from B. 

FF is fashion waist length from C. 

G is y^ over-shoulder below F. 

H ,, located by an square line ruled down from 

E by J and E. 
I locates the centre breast point at the most 

pushed forward place. 
I is V2 breast and 3 inches from D. 
J is 1/2 over-shoulder and 1/2 in. from E. 
J J is 1 inch (4 seams) from J. 
L ,, squared down from J by J and E. 
M ,, V2 over-shoulder plus V^ inch above L. 
N is midway J and M and connected with A. 

,, scye depth above L. 

t* ., V2 over-shoulder less 3^ in. from E. 
Q ,, V2 over-shoulder less 1 in. from D. 
R ,, Vi over-shoulder above Q. 
S ,, Vfe over-shoulder above R. 
T ,,1/4 waist from B. 

U ,, V4 over-shoulder less V2 in- from 23 or to 
taste. 

V is 1/2 over-shoulder below the centre of M- 
0, less 1/2 ii. 

W is 114 in. from G. 

X ,, a trifle more than Vfe over-shoulder from 
W. 

Y is over-shoulder from W. 

Z ,, the difference between V2 over-shoulder 

and V4 waist from Y. 
STAR is V2 over-shoulder from 1. 
BP is V3 breast below 5. 

1 is 3 inches from Z. 

2 ,. squared up by W and 1. 

3 ,, squared down by W and 1. 

4 ,, over-shoulder and 1 inch from F. 

5 ,, squared by T and J and 1/2 over-shoulder 
from J J. 

6 is V3 over-shoulder and V2 inch above 5. 



7 is y^, ovei -shoulder below 20. 1 inch is taken 
out at 7 between back and side body. 

8 is 1/2 inch above JJ and the adjuvant of N. 

9 is the ciossing point of the lines A-S, 10-C 
through which the neck circle is curved. 

10 is 2 inches from STAR. 

11 ,, as much above 5, as N is above J. 

12 ,, as much from 8, as the back edge on 
the line J-E is made from J. 

13 is a little more from 27 than BB is from 
FF. 

14 is made 3 inches from 3, 

15 is l^ waist and 1 inch from STAR. 

16 ,, the centre point of the shoulder. 

17 ,, located by the direct strap measure from 
D when the back is laid in the shoulder clo- 
sed position; deviations in regard to the up- 
per structure, inlcuded "Stooping, head for 
or backward, large or flat blades etc". have 
to be worked out from this point; it must 
however be under stood that deviations are 
being determined by the direct measures. 

18 is V2 breast plus 2 inches from D. 

19 ,, V2 seat and V2 in, less the back quanti- 
ty from Z. 

20 ,, midway Q and H. 

21 ,, V^ over-shoulder from B. 

23 ,, 11/4 in. from 21. 

24 ,, a seam below fashion waist line. 

25 ,, V2 inch above fashion waist line. 

26 ,, 11/2 in. below fashion ,, ,, 

27 ,, the difference between 14 waist and Vi 
seat above 24. 

Providing for seams the side body is curved 
from 1/2 in. above R to 20. 

THE LAPEL. 

29 line to 31 is squared up by the seat line 

touching in all cases point L 
29-30 is equal to the fore part. 

31 is made 2Vi inches above 30. 

32 ,, ,, 11/2 .. from 31. 

33 ,, ,, 3 ,, ., L 

34 ,, ,, 21/4 ,, ,, 29. 



ALPHABETICAL DESRIPTION 



45 



CLOSE-FITTING COAT FOR STOUT LADIES FIGURE. 



DIA.ON PAGE 37 



A is one sixth over-shoulder above C. 

B ,, natural waist length from C. 

BB is full length from C. 

C is one sixth over-shoulder below A. 

D ,, scye depth below C. 

E ,, Va over-shoulder above D. 

F ,, 1 inch from B. 

G is y-i over-shoulder below F. 

H ,, located by an square line ruled down from 

E by J and E. 
J is V2 over-shoulder and V^ in. from E. 
L ,, squared down from J by J and E. 
M ,, V2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch above L. 
N is midway J and M and connected with A. 

,. scye depth above L. 

P .T V2 over-shoulder less % in. from E. 

Q .. V^ over-shoulder less 1 in. from D. 

R ., !4 over-shoulder above Q. 

S ,, V^ over-shoulder above R. 

T ,,1/4 waist from B. 

U „ V^ over-shoulder less 1 in. from 23. 

V is V2 over-shoulder below the centre of M- 
O, less V2 i"- 

W is 11/4 in. from G. 

Y is over-shoulder from W. 

Z ,, the difference between V2 over-shoulder 

and V4 waist from Y. 
STAR is V2 over-shoulder from 2. 
BP is one sixth breast below 5. 

1 is 2 inches from Z. 

2 ,. squared up by W and 1. 

.3 .. squared down by W and 1. 

4 ,, over-shoulder from F. 

5 ,, squared by T and J and V2 over-shoulder 
from J. 

6 is Va over-shoulder above 5. 

7 is 14 over-shoulder below 20. 1 inch is taken 
out at 7 between back and side-piece. 

9 is the crossing point of the lines A-S. 10-C 
through which the neck circle is curved. 



10 is 2 inches from STAR. 

11 ,, as much above 5, as N is above J. 

12 ., as much from J, as the back edge on 
the line J-E is made from J. 

15 is 14 waist and 1 inch from STAR. 

16 ,, the centre point of the shoulder. 

17 ., located by the direct strap measure from 
D when the back is laid in the shoulder clo- 
sed position; deviations in regard to the up- 
per structure, inlcuded "Stooping, head for 
or backward, large or flat blades etc". have 
to be worked out from this point; it must 
however be under stood that deviations are 
being determined by the direct measures. 

17-C by way of the direct strap measure indi- 
cates the deviations in the upper structure 
of shoulders neck and blades. 

Apply strap measure up from 17 to C. with- 
out addition; raise or lower the line A — S as 
much in parallel as the direct strap measure 
may determine; if direct strap is less, one 
half of it is added to roundness of the blade 
the other half is added to the roundness of 
shoulder seam. 

In cases where the strap reaches beyond C, 
the process must be worked out in the op- 
posite way. 

18 is ^2 breast plus 2 inches from D. 

19 is V2 seat less back quantity W-X, and hip 
excess from Z. 

23 is IVi inches from 21. 

KL is made the difference between Vi seat 
and V^ waist. 

15-A this distance indicates the surplus in the 
front waist; % of it, is taken out between 
front-piece and B, the rest from C to D. 

E — 1 on the seat-line W-1, the distance frorn 
centre line to 1 is token out between fiont- 
piece and fore-part, less 2 inches; this 2 in. 
being token out of the second bust-seam. 



46 



ALPHABETICAL DESRIPTION 

FOR 

S.B. SACK-COAT. 

DIA. ON PAGE 11 



A is one sixth over-shoulder above C. 

B ,, natural waist length from C. 

BB is full length from C. 

C is one sixth over-shoulder below A. 

D ,, scye depth below C. 

E ,, Vb over-shoulder above D. 

F „ 1 inch from B. 

G is 14 over-shoulder below F. 

H ,, located by an square line ruled down from 

E by J and E. 
I is 1 inch from 18. 

J is V2 over-shoulder and V^ in. from E. 
JJ is 1 inch (4 seams) from J. 
K is % in. from U. 
L ,, squared down from J by J and E. 
M ,, Vi over-shoulder plus V2 inch above L. 
N is midway J and M and connected with A. 

,, scye depth above L. 

P ,, Vz over-shoulder less 3^ in. from E. 

Q .. Vi over-shoulder less 1 in. from D. 

R ,, V4 over-shoulder above Q. 

S ,, 14 over-shoulder above R. 

T ,, 14 waist from B. 

U ,, V^ over-shoulder less 1 in. from F. 

V is V2 over-shoulder below the centre of M- 
O, less 1/2 in- 

W is 11/4 in. from G. 

X ,, V2 over-shoulder less V2 i"- from W. 

Y is over-shoulder from W. 

Z ,, the difference between V2 over-shoulder 

and V^ waist from Y. 
STAR is Vi over-shoulder from 2. 
BP is one sixth breast below 5. 

1 is 3 inches from Z. 

2 ,. squared up by W and 1. 

3 ,, squared down by W and 1. 

4 ,, over-shoulder plus 1 in. (4 seams.) from 
F. 

5 ,, squared by T and J and Vi over-shoulder 
from JJ. 

6 is V^ over-shoulder plus V^ inch (2 seams;) 



above 5. 

7 is Vi over-shoulder below Q. 1 inch is taken 
out at 7 between back and fore part. 

8 is Vi inch (2 seams;) above J J. 

9 is the crossing point of the lines A-S, 10-C 
through which the neck circle is curved. 

10 is 2 inches from STAR. 

11 ,, as much above 5, as N is above J. 

12 ,, as much from 8, as the back edge on 
the line J-E is made from J. 

15 is y^ waist and 1 inch from STAR. 

16 ,, the centre point of the shoulder. 

17 ,, located by the direct strap measure from 
D when the back is laid in the shoulder clo- 
sed position; deviations in regard to the up- 
per structure, inlcuded "Stooping, head for 
or backward, large or flat blades etc ".have 
to be worked out from this point; it must 
however be under stood that deviations are 
being determined by the direct measures. 

17-C by way of the direct strap measure indi- 
cates the deviations in the upper structure 
of shoulders neck and blades. 

Apply strap measure up from 17 to C, with- 
out addition; raise or lower the line A — S as 
much in parallel as the direct strap measure 
may determine; if direct strap is less, one 
half of it is added to roundness of the blade 
the other half is added to the roundness of 
shoulder seam. 

In cases where the strap reaches beyond C, 
the process must be worked out in the op- 
posite way. 

18 is 1/2 breast plus 2 inches from D. 

19 is 1/2 seat less back quantity W-X, and hip 
excess from Z. 

a is located by ruling down from A through I. 

15-a; this distance indicates the surplus in the 
front waist; % of it is taken out on top of 
lapel; the rest from under the most promi- 
nent part of the chest. 



47 



PRODUCING DIFFERENT STYLES OF 
GARMENTS by A STANDARD PATTERN. 

(continued from page 34. ) 
When I say: "This are the only models a cut- 
ter needs to understand", many cutter no 
doubt, will be surprised looking at the great 
varity of styles which fashion shows and crea- 
tes; but bear in mind that styles are produced 
by a foundation model and anything as pleats, 
fullness, flat e, or anything which appeares in 
fashion, is fancy made up out of a plain model. 
To do this needs a little artistic skill. 
The coat with —French-seam,— and what can 
be accomplished by it, should be thoroughly 
studied in every detail. With seams running 
down over blades, bust and hips, it's adapt- 
able for any form of figure and for all sizes- 
Many experienced cutter uses this to construct 
by its outlines nearly every style; for instance 
—if pleats are being wanted,— he folds pleats 
ready cuts the pattern where they are wanted 
and pleat or pleats are pasted in. The same is 
done with flare, fullness etc. but fitting points 
must be preserved; for instance— the one inch 
taken out at 7, may not be neglected; as this 
would enfeeble fitting points round neck, scye 
and shoulders; diagrams show different positi^ 
ons and means in which this inch can be taken 
out. To use this as a foundation model is a far 
faster and an safe way. — In Ladies' figures it 
must however not be omitted we meet just as 
well corpulency as in Mens' figures and even 
as in those, if close or smoot hanging fronts 
below the waistline are desired, the surplus of 
material must be taken away by same means 
as described for stout and corpulent figures. 



Quarter of an inch seams are allowed for all 
Men garments, Ladi'es garments are nett. 



CONTENTS. 

Theorem of the system page 3 

How to take measuies 4 

D. B. Frock-coat 6 

Corpulent Man's Cut-away 8 

S.B. Sack-coat 10 

Corpulent Man's Sack-coat 12 

Stout Man's Sack-coat 14 

Tall Figure with slooping shoulders 16 

High siiouldered Figure 18 

Stooping Figure 20 

Sleeves 20 

Man's Over-coat 22 

Man's Top-coat 24 

The Lower side 26 

Vests 26 

Military Tunick 28 

Collars 30 

Military Burnoose 30 

Trousers 32 

Ladies-coat with French-seam 34 

Close Fitting coat for Stout Lady 36 

Corpulent Ladies coat with large bust 38 

Ladies long loose-fitting coat 40 

Skirt 42 

Alphabetical desription for Frock-coat 44 

,, ,, ,, Ladies coat 45 

,, ,, ,, Sack-coat 46 
Producing different styles by a regular 

style pattern 47 




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